Embark on an exploration into Bhuleshwar, nestled in the historical core of South Bombay, a neighborhood that stands as a testament to sacredness and vibrancy. This enclave is a tapestry of temples, rest-houses, animal sanctuaries, and bustling markets, offering a journey that borders on the spiritual. Engage in a walking tour that promises worship, relaxation, and culinary delights, venturing through courtyards, narrow alleyways, and the local vernacular of wadas and gully-guchis. Along the way, the guidance of locals and the reliable assistance of Google Maps are invaluable in navigating this labyrinth. Adhere to the local customs and the clear directives against indulgence in alcohol or meat as stated on the historic rest-houses’ marble inscriptions. Dominated by a Gujarati and Jain populace, Bhuleshwar is a bastion of vegetarianism.
Start your exploration in the early hours at the revered Shree Bhuleshwar Temple. This sanctuary, dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is affectionately known as ‘Bhola Ishwar’ or the ‘Lord of the Innocent’, has lent its name to the neighborhood. The temple complex, with its modest entrance, leads into a maze of passageways and shrines venerating the divine family of Shiva. On entry, purchasing a small offering of flowers, milk, and rice for around 20 rupees enriches the spiritual experience, with priests available to aid in the rituals. The nagarkhana, a music-filled balcony at the entrance, marks a traditional welcome and farewell to visitors.
Post-temple visit, make your way east along Shiek Menon Street, navigating past the bustling Kalbadevi Road, to dine at Hotel Shree G. Bhagat Tarachand for a robust North Indian breakfast. Despite several namesakes, the original G. Tarachand, established in 1875, remains unparalleled for its aloo, mooli, or gobi parathas, complemented by a refreshing lassi.
Next, venture to the Shree Mumbadevi Temple, the city’s homage to the deity Amba, revered by the original salt collectors and fishermen of Bombay. This temple, now a bustling center of devotion, necessitates passing through security measures to explore its sanctity fully. Adjacent is the Shree Jagdish Temple, a less frequented yet visually striking shrine dedicated to Lord Krishna.
The narrative of Bhuleshwar and Mumbadevi Temples once featuring significant tanks for ritualistic dips unfolds, revealing a past intertwined with the city’s growth. Another historical beacon, the C.P. Tank circle, marks Bhuleshwar’s northern edge, leading towards the renowned Chor Bazaar. The legacy of philanthropy flourishes around this landmark, with community centers like Hira Baug and Krishna Baug serving as testaments to the area’s generous spirit.
Conclude your visit with a stroll to the Bombay Panjrapole, an animal sanctuary with a long history of compassion. Feeding the animals here is a gentle reminder of the neighborhood’s ethos of care and respect.
As your journey wraps up, indulge in a divine feast at Shree Thaker Bhojanalay, known for its exquisite Gujarati thali. A post-meal wander through Swadeshi Market and a potential visit to the historic Bhangwadi theatre complex offer a fitting end to an enriching exploration.
The essence of Bhuleshwar, from its religious sanctuaries to its markets and community centers, reflects the soul of South Bombay. This walking tour not only showcases the area’s devout culture and architectural marvels but also immerses you in the vibrant life of one of the city’s most historic neighborhoods.