The charm of Mumbai is undeniable—from its bustling streets to its iconic cuisine and striking architecture. Yet, the city’s incessant traffic, packed crowds, and the constant barrage of sights, sounds, and smells can sometimes be overwhelming. Stepping away, even if only for a day, becomes not just a matter of enjoyment but a necessity for mental well-being. Despite what its sprawling urban density might suggest, Mumbai is actually quite central, nestled among historical towns, verdant hills, and beaches bathed in sunshine, all within a short distance. When the need to rejuvenate strikes, these are the getaways I turn to.
Udvada: A Glimpse into History, Architecture, and Culinary Delights
Located in Gujarat, the coastal state just north of Mumbai, Udvada is a quaint town that feels like a step back in time. Its narrow, verdant streets are adorned with ancient homes featuring double porches (otlas) and traditional wooden railings (katera), constructed by the Parsi merchant community. These descendants of Zoroastrians, who migrated from Iran to South Asia around 1,300 years ago, have significantly influenced Mumbai’s cultural landscape despite their small numbers.
At the heart of Udvada is the Iranshah Atash Behram, the most revered Zoroastrian fire temple in India. Although the temple itself is relatively new at 276 years old, the sacred fire it houses is believed to have been continuously burning for over 1,290 years. While non-Parsis cannot enter Zoroastrian holy sites, Udvada remains a pilgrimage destination for those who appreciate the community’s sophisticated and subtly spiced cuisine.
To experience Udvada in a single day requires an early departure from Mumbai, aiming to arrive by mid-morning to respect the local custom of siesta. Options for getting there include taking the Gujarat Express from Mumbai Central to Udvada station or a state transport bus to Vapi, then a taxi. However, driving or hiring a car offers the best opportunity to delve into Parsi culinary traditions, including a recommended breakfast stop at Hotel Ahura on NH48 for a taste of Parsi breakfast specialties.
Udvada’s dining scene is centered around the Parsi-run hotels like Globe, Iranshah Apartments, and Ashishvang Hotel, which serve a rotating menu of Parsi delicacies. Expect to find dishes such as dhansak, sali murgi, chicken masala, and mutton keema, among others. Vegetarian options may be limited.
After dining, a visit to the Zoroastrian Information Center offers educational insights, while local Irani bakeries provide a chance to taste and purchase traditional sweets like nankhatai, khari, and mawa cakes. Also, look out for auto-rickshaws selling homemade, seasonal ice creams.
While it’s possible to return to Mumbai the same day, lingering in Udvada for dinner and possibly overnight allows for further exploration and the chance to try dudh na puff, a traditional milk froth dessert.
Jawhar: A Blend of History, Artistry, Biking, and Nature Trails
Since the colonial era of Mumbai, when the warmth of spring and the monsoon rains arrive, the city’s affluent have historically sought refuge in the hills to the east across the harbor. They seek a respite from the oppressive, malarial heat to enjoy the cool, misty air that descends with the rains upon the picturesque hill stations renowned throughout India. While many of these retreats remain favored—often overcrowded—weekend destinations for Mumbaikars, Jawhar offers a more secluded haven. Once the heart of the Warli kingdom, it presents a less frequented escape.
Jawhar shines brightest during the monsoon, offering a charm distinct from more frequented locales like Matheran and Lonavala. Its appeal lies in its modest size and the lack of development, providing a tranquil retreat. The area is ripe for exploration, with mountains to scale, villages to discover, and waterfalls that mesmerize, all away from the throngs that diminish the tranquility of other hill stations.
The journey to Jawhar from the unremarkable NH48 at Manor unwinds through lush foliage and alongside seasonal streams. The town is encircled by viewpoints such as Hanuman Point, Sunset Point, and Shirpamal, each offering stunning views of the Western Ghats, the mountain range that delineates the tropical western coast of India from the Deccan Plateau. For those arriving by ST bus, auto rickshaws can be rented for the day from the bus station.
For enthusiasts of history and cinema, a visit to the Jai Vilas Palace is a must. This pink stone palace, once the residence of a tribal ruler and nestled among cashew plantations, has served as a backdrop for various films and TV shows, including the 1990s hit Khiladi. While the palace is generally closed to the public, a persuasive conversation with the caretaker, along with a small incentive for his tea, might secure a tour of its eighty rooms.
One of my personal highlights in Jawhar involves seeking out Warli paintings. This tribal art form, characterized by intricate geometric patterns that narrate aspects of village life, ceremonies, and hunting scenes, can be found adorning local schools, bars, and even along highways. In the main market, the artist Pandurang Dev Chaudhary runs a cooperative that offers these captivating works on both canvas and paper, available for purchase at remarkably reasonable prices.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park: Outdoor Adventures and Family Fun
Within the confines of Sanjay Gandhi National Park (SGNP)—a vast 40-square-mile expanse that houses the unique urban leopards—it’s surprisingly easy to disconnect from the bustling metropolis that encircles it. Despite the park’s popularity, drawing millions of visitors annually, it remains a verdant retreat in one of the most densely populated cities globally. For those seeking solitude, weekday mornings right after the 7:30 am opening are ideal.
Accessing the park is straightforward from the Borivali suburb entrance, located just off the Western Express Highway. Upon entry, making a stop at the Nature Interpretation Center (note that it’s closed on Mondays) is recommended for newcomers. Here, you can orient yourself and inquire about any scheduled guided nature walks, bird-watching tours, butterfly garden strolls, or even overnight camping adventures available that day. It’s wise to arrange trek bookings ahead of time, especially since cell service within SGNP is notoriously unreliable, making solo deep park explorations inadvisable.
SGNP is laced with numerous trails appealing to various interests. Bird watchers often flock to the Gaumukh Trail, while those seeking panoramic views can ascend the Highest Point trail, offering vistas over the park and surrounding lakes like Vihar, Tulsi, and Powai. The Shilonda Trail, meandering through bamboo groves and hilly streams, offers a moderate trekking challenge.
A highlight for many visitors is the Kanheri Cave Complex, featuring over a hundred Buddhist monastic cells and prayer halls. These ancient caves, reminiscent of the Ajanta and Ellora Buddhist sites in Aurangabad, provide a smaller-scale yet profound historical experience. For those interested in rock-cut temples closer to Mumbai, the Elephanta Island caves present a more crowded alternative, accessible by boat from the Gateway of India.
For a relaxed day, consider packing a picnic (note the absence of food stalls within the park) and enjoying the Fragrance Garden, a collection of aromatic plants such as citronella, patchouli, and spider lily. Alternatively, the park’s toy train offers a leisurely tour around Gandhi Tekdi hillock, and bicycles are available for rent near the main entrance. Before departing back into Mumbai’s hustle and bustle, visiting the nursery to pick up a plant can serve as a lasting green memento of your visit.
Vasai Fort: A Glimpse into Archaeological Splendor and Culinary Delight
Navigating through the bustling streets of Vasai, a coastal town now part of Mumbai’s expansive urban landscape, 43 miles north of the city center, leads you to a fascinating relic of history known as Vasai Fort. As you approach, the urban chaos transitions into serene coconut groves, signaling your arrival at this historic fortress. Constructed approximately four centuries ago by the Portuguese, and later governed by both the Marathas and the British, Vasai Fort stands with its moss-covered walls, proudly overlooking the Arabian Sea on three sides. Originally, this site was a fortified city sprawling over 110 acres, complete with chapels, a hospital, granary, town hall, and a vibrant marketplace. Today, it has been reduced to a hauntingly beautiful ruin, a favorite among young couples and photographers drawn to its romantic backdrop.
The mystery of Vasai Fort is heightened by the absence of informative plaques or historical markers, inviting visitors to wander its ramparts and breathe life into the echoes of its past. Accessibility is surprisingly straightforward: a local train journey north on the Western Line to Vasai Road station, followed by a brief rickshaw ride, brings you directly to this hidden gem.
For those seeking to indulge in a culinary adventure, a stop at Agashi Bhujing Centre on your return journey is a must. Here, you can savor bhujing, a traditional yet under-the-radar Mumbai street food. This delicacy consists of spicy roasted chicken intertwined with flattened rice, offering a unique taste of the region’s rich culinary heritage.
Practical Information
Finding your way out of Mumbai is most straightforward when you head to the nearest State Transportation (ST) bus stands, conveniently located at train stations such as Mumbai Central, Dadar, Parel, Kurla, Sion, or Chembur. In addition to ST buses, numerous private bus operators also connect Mumbai with various destinations, catering to all budget levels. For trips in the vicinity of Mumbai, purchasing a ticket directly at the stand is typically hassle-free. However, for longer journeys, consider booking your ticket online in advance. Beyond bus travel, there are options for hiring outstation cabs or renting cars. Although self-drive services are available through online platforms, the cost savings compared to hiring a driver are minimal. The trade-off between saving money and the potential stress of navigating some of the world’s most challenging roads might not be worth it.